Electrical FAQ

Most Provinces call for 100 amps minimum, but with all the new electronic devices, air conditioning, appliances, hot tubs,pools etc... I would suggest 200 amps especially in new homes over 2500 sq/ft. This also gives you some space for future additions. This is not a job for an unlicensed hobbyist to attempt. In most cases it involves replacing everything from the service loop (this is the wire that extends from the top of your meter to the utility tie in)or the meter base, in the case of an underground service, up to and including the main panel and grounding electrode.

Any outlet within 1.5/M of a sink must be GFCI protected. The code also requires all kitchen outlets for countertop use to be 20 Amp GFCI protected. GFCI outlets must be installed in any area where electricity and water may come into contact, including basements, pools, spas, utility rooms, and outdoors. At least one GFCI protected outlet is required in each bathroom and all outdoor outlets.

There are two types of GFCIs in homes, the GFCI outlet and the GFCI circuit breaker. Both do the same job, but each has different applications and limitations.

The GFCI outlet is actually a replacement for a standard electrical outlet. A GFCI is not dependent on a ground to function. It does not measure shorts to the ground, it measures the current difference between the hot and neutral wires. A sudden difference of 5/ma or more indicates that there is another path for the electricity to flow through will trip this device. The only downside to this is there may be some nuisance tripping in highly inductive loads like large motors or even fluorescent lamps or fixtures on the same circuit. But the newer models seemed to have corrected this somewhat.

It protects any appliance plugged into it, and can also be wired to protect other outlets that are connected to it. The GFCI circuit breaker controls an entire circuit, and is installed as a replacement for a circuit breaker on your home's main circuit board. Rather than install multiple GFCI outlets, one GFCI circuit breaker can protect the entire circuit. There is a test button and a reset button on these units. If you press the test button the reset should pop out. To reset just push the reset button in.

Not a good idea to put lights on GFCI protected circuit, you don't want to be left in the dark if the circuit trips. Generally, equipment such as refrigerators, freezers and sump pumps that cannot go without electrical power for an extended period of time without causing costly losses or property damage should not be placed on a GFCI. protected circuit. GFCIs are very sensitive and are subject to nuisance tripping. GFCI receptacles don't last outdoors even under the best of conditions. Be sure to test the device using the "test" button before you use one.

At The present time most provinces allow you to do whatever you want in your own home, but doing electrical work yourself is a gamble. How much are you willing to risk to save money. There is a reason why it takes so much training to become an electrician. Do not make a mistake by taking electricity lightly; even the smallest job could be a safety hazard. Why take a chance. Get a professional to do this work.

Also In some provinces the homeowner can pull his own Electrical permit for work in his single family home, what he does not know is that in case of damage or fire caused by his work, his homeowners insurance may not pay in some cases, they will only if the work is done by a licensed Electrical Contractor. You should check with your homeowners Insurance Co., and they should sign a document or something to this effect to acknowledge this when they pull a permit.

The most dangerous time is when you tell yourself. This is easy. I can do it myself. Why should I get an electrician? Than when you don't remember where all those wires went, or your hair is standing straight up, you say to yourself. Well maybe we better call someone to straighten up this mess. Now it will cost you double what you thought you were going to save in the beginning or even more if you suffer an injury.

In every kitchen, family room, dining room, living room, parlor, library, den, bedroom, or similar room or area of dwelling units, receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the floor line in any wall space there is more than eight feet, from an outlet in that space. This is to prevent the use of extension cords. Outlets are usually placed about 12 inches above floor level. Switches usually go about 48 inches from floor level.

All receptacles installed within 1.5/M of a kitchen sink shall be 20 Amp and shall have G.F.C.I. protection. Receptacles in a kitchen used to serve counter tops should be supplied with at least two 20 amp branch circuits, for small appliances. Each fixed appliance (refrigerator, stove, dish washer) shall have its own dedicated circuit. On counter tops 12 inches or wider a receptacle shall be installed so that there is no more than 24 inches between outlets. Receptacles outlets installed to serve island counter tops shall be installed above, or within 12 inches below the counter top. There shall be no more than 24 inches from center line of counter top. No receptacle shall be installed face up on a sink counter top.

The Ontario Electrical code requires that all branch circuits supplying 120Volt, single phase, 15 ampere outlets installed in dwelling unit bedrooms be protected by an arc-fault Circuit interrupter. Eventually they will be in more areas but the OEC selected to require them on bedroom circuits first because studies showed many home fire deaths were related to bedroom circuits.

The AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker will shut off a circuit in a fraction of a second if arcing develops. The current inside of an arc is not always high enough to trip a regular breaker. You must have noticed a cut or worn piece of a cord or a loose connection in a junction box or receptacle arcing and burnt without tripping the regular breaker. As you can guess this is a major cause of fires in a dwelling.

There is a difference between AFCIs and GFCIs. AFCIs are intended to reduce the likelihood of fire caused by electrical arcing faults; whereas, GFCIs are personnel protection intended to reduce the likelihood of electric shock hazard. Don't misunderstand, GFCIs are still needed and save a lot of lives.

AFCIs can be installed in any 15 ampere branch circuit in homes today, and are currently available as circuit breakers with built-in AFCI features. In the near future, other types of devices with AFCI protection will be available.

If a GFCI receptacle is installed on the load side of an AFCI it is possible for both the AFCI and the GFCI to trip on a fault if the current exceeds the limit for both devices. It is also possible for the AFCI to trip and the GFCI not to trip since the two devices could reach each other. However, in no case is safety compromised.

Our honest staff and transparent pricing make it easy to get electrical quotes on work of any shape or size. All you have to do is give us a call or use the service request form on our website to give us the details of the work you are looking for. We will get back to you with an upfront estimate of what we expect your job to cost. We pride ourselves on our customer-focused approach and provide risk-free estimates on our electrical work in a simple and straightforward process.

If your lights are blinking on a regular basis, there is typically a simple resolution. Most of the time, flickering is caused by a problem with the light bulb, a loose plug, a faulty switch, or a nearby appliance pulling its power. These are typically easy to fix for our certified electricians—however, occasionally, flickering lights might point to a larger problem. Although an occasional light flicker is normal, if your problem is persisting, we recommend contacting our electrical company to inspect your issue.

Your light switches should not be hot to the touch. This is often a sign of an underlying problem with your electrical system behind the walls. Some of the issues that could lead to this issue include faulty or old wiring or an overloaded or failing switch. Dimmer switches do tend to get warm as part of their normal functioning but should not be hot. Whatever is causing your light switch to heat up, it is not something that should be ignored. We recommend getting our certified contractors to look into it as soon as possible.

With the exception of some minor tasks, almost all electrical work will require a permit. This will ensure that everything is up to code and safe on your property when the job is finished. The best way to know if your work will require a permit is to contact us. A general rule is that if you are installing new fixtures, changing your wiring, or performing any other extensive electrical work, you will need to contact an electrical company. That being said, we will be happy to assist you with this process and point you to the right place to acquire an electrical permit.